Prince Edward Island
Written by : Helen
We left Citadel Hill at 12:30pm and arrived in P.E.I. at 4pm via the Confederation Ferry. From Halifax the ferry terminal is about 2 hours away and the ferry ride itself was about a 75 min. ride. We had lunch on the ferry and it wasn't all that tasty and very expensive! As we drove onto P.E.I. we were in awe. The landscape is absolutely beautiful and vastly different from Nova Scotia. Steve thought it looked a little like Montana without the mountains, Nikolas said it looked like Mars. So, if you can picture those two together??? The land and roads are red and as you drive along, the mighty Atlantic is always visible as you turn a corner or top a hill. The land is relatively flat but there are many rolling hills that allow for the spectacular views of the ocean. We had not made any plans or reservations for P.E.I. but we had a tourist book that had names of motels, inns and B&B's on the island. They were rated and some had pictures and thus our first lesson: what you see in the brochure is never what it really looks like. Like those pictures of models on magazine covers, they must touch up the pictures in the brochures. We drove for hours trying to find a place that looked decent enough for us to stay in. Finally, we came across The Singing Sands Hotel. It wasn't that appealing but we were getting desperate and very tired. It ended up being a wonderful little place. It was very quaint and clean but it was also extremely musty. When we woke up in the morning the inside of our windows were covered in moisture. I felt like a wet dog. In hindsight, we should have left the window open a crack. The owner was a wonderfully friendly gentleman (named Don) and he chuckled when we asked for the key to our room. Apparently in those parts, people just don't lock their doors, plus we were the only guests staying the night.
The hotel had a fabulous view of a beach and soon we were making our way down to this beach with grocery bags filled with cheese, crackers, fruit and a nice bottle of wine. The beach is located beside The Basin Head Fishing Museum and what a beach it was! It had the most beautiful powder- soft white sand that stretched for miles. Don gave us a couple of wine glasses and we headed to "the nicest strip of beach on P.E.I." according to him. We arrived on this beautiful dock, below the Museum and had a little picnic while watching our kids play down on the beach. We had listened to those two kids whine for the last 3 hours about everything from "when are we going to find a motel" to "I'm hungry", so this was a very relaxing snack/dinner. After being there only 10 minutes, having our wine and cheese, we felt totally relaxed. The most romantic sunset was setting over the horizon on one of the most spectacular beaches you will ever see. We felt we could stay there forever. Our kids were playing on the beach and to see them finally getting along just made it that much more sweeter. But all great things must come to an end. The one thing you don't want to hear when you are in the middle of nowhere is "I have to go to the washroom!" My son had managed to hold that part of his anatomy for more than 8 hours and now, a good 15 minutes from any washroom, he has a turtle head poking out. (Sorry, Steve wrote that part!) With some coaxing though, we convinced him that our plastic grocery bag was the perfect temporary toilet.? (too much information?)
Exploring P.E.I. is made so much easier by the handbook you get at any tourist stop. In the book the island is divided into four sections. There are three scenic drives, Lady Slipper, Blue Heron and Kings Byway. The fourth section is centered in the Charlottetown Area. Each drive has its own unique charm and we traveled them all except the Lady Slipper which is the western side of the island. To give a brief history of P.E.I. we go back many centuries after settlement by the Micmacs. The island itself was discovered by Jacques Cartier. In 1750, the first white settlers, the Acadians who were of French origin, established themselves at Port La Joye which was just across the harbour from Charlottetown. They named the island Ile St-Jean. Later, with Britain and France engaged in war, the island changed hands several times. By 1758, Britain occupied the island. They deported most of its Acadian settlers back to Europe. Many were later sent from France to settle Louisiana, becoming known as the "Cajuns". The few who remained on the island escaped by fleeing to the woods. As you travel this beautiful island you come across many interesting historical sites and it turned out to be very educational to all of us.
From the Singing Sands we traveled to the easternmost point of the island. There sits a lighthouse that you can tour, but unfortunately we found this out after we had left. From there we drove up the east coast and then along the northeast coast of the island. We drove by miles of white sandy beaches, scenic trails and pure natural beauty. We came across a little cove called Shipwreck Point. We parked and took a walk and were able to watch boat after boat enter the cove with their boats filled with lobster. When we talked to a few of the fishermen they informed us that most of the boats haul in a thousand pounds of lobster each day, each boat. There is no processing involved, the lobsters are brought out of the boat, placed in tubs and loaded on waiting trucks. The trucks transport them directly to market or to the airport, and within a few hours are probably placed, steaming hot, on a plate in some fancy restaurant in California.
Ship Wreck Point
One of the many fishing villages we came across as we traveled around P.E.I.
These boats were bringing in 1000 pounds of Lobster each run.
Prince Edward Island's population is 140,000 and you can drive from tip to tip in a day (224kms)
We decided to head to Charlottetown to check out Canada's smallest provincial capital and the island's largest city. Again we were pleasantly surprised as we drove along the harbour and admired the beautiful scenery. The red brick buildings are accented by the rich greens of tree-lined streets. We stopped and played in Victoria Park and watched the noon hour joggers and walkers make their way along the popular boardwalk. It actually reminded us a little of Stanley Park, but the highest building in the background is the Delta Hotel, soaring a colossal 10 stories in the sky. We decided to stay at the hotel because it is located on the waterfront in the heart of the Victorian-flavoured city centre. But, unfortunately, the hotel was booked so we decided to head to Cavendish and try out Charlottetown another time.
For those who have read and loved Lucy Maud Montgomery's novel Anne of Green Gables, a tour of "Anne's Land" is a must. You can actually visit the site of the green-gabled farmhouse which inspired the setting for the story, and the Lucy Maud Montgomery birthplace. Danika and I were lucky enough to tour Avonlea Village while the boys went to a theme park. Even though I read the story ages ago and Danika had never even heard of her we had an excellent time. When you entered the gates it's like you step back in time and live the story. There are characters from the novel dressed in their period costumes all through the village and they talk to you as if you are part of that era. There was a lively barnyard with chickens and goats and other animals and there is a horse-and-wagon that takes visitors on a tour of the village. We got lucky and joined in a music show that was very funny and interactive with the kids, Dani loved it. While we were walking down the dirt road we heard a school bell ringing and Danika was ushered into a one room schoolhouse and experienced a class from the olden days. Each desk was equipped with it's own little chalkboard and the whole experience was very authentic. We then went into a store that let you dress up in period costumes yourself and we took a bunch of pictures with our own camera. After a little pony ride we sat down and enjoyed a bottle of the ever famous Raspberry Cordial (very good). Of course the exit is accessed through a gift shop, but I had no problem buying Danika a country hat complete with fake long red braided ponytails.
Helen and Danika living the life of Anne in Cavendish, PEI
We met Steve and Nikolas at an amusement park and decided that we were all starving and it was a great night for Lobster. We headed to the Fisherman's Wharf Restaurant in North Rustico, which is about 20 minutes outside of Cavendish. They claim to have the worlds largest lobster pound and an all you-can-eat 60 foot salad bar. We ordered a 4 1/2 pounder that we split in half and shared between the two of us, because the kids weren't having any part of it. The Lobster was massive and Steve was stuffed after eating only the claw. I was stuffed from the salad bar alone, so the magical meal we had dreamed about was not so magical. The salad bar was average and the Lobster was like chewing over-cooked chicken. We were told later that the bigger the lobster, the tougher it is. Oh well, it was an experience. Before leaving, Steve just had to see where they had this lobster pound hidden and the cooking set up, so with our waiter in tow we headed into the back of the restaurant. This place had more tubs than a big city aquarium, and each one was loaded with different sized lobster. After getting a look at an 8 pound monster, we decided it was time to take our two freaked-out little children back to the motel for bed. The Stanley Bridge Country Resort was where we were staying and it offered everything you could ask for at a very reasonable price. We even attempted to be the first guests to go for a swim in 2004, but the water was still too chilly and the mosquitoes were on a mission. After a wonderful nights sleep we headed back to Charlottetown and managed to get a room at the Delta with the one thing kids love, an indoor swimming pool. So after about 2 hours of swimming, we decided to get some dinner at a restaurant that was referred to us by the Bell man. The place was called The Prince and Water. We walked the four blocks, sat down and readied ourselves for another try at Lobster. As we were pondering the menu, I noticed that I didn't have my purse with me anymore. Needless to say, I freaked out and instantly lost my appetite. Steve ran back to the hotel and looked everywhere including the laundry room where I had just been doing some laundry. He returned with the bad news that it was nowhere to be found and told me that I had to cancel all my credit cards right away. But I was not that keen to start canceling my cards until I had an opportunity to search the hotel myself. For some odd reason I could not believe someone in this incredibly safe and friendly island would steal my purse (yes, I am a little naive). So Steve made me promise that I would cancel them on the walk back. So to make a long story short, I was canceling my last credit card as I entered the laundry room of the hotel, only to see my purse exactly in the same spot I had left it, with not a thing missing from it. So, we had a fantastic lobster dinner, a couple of drinks (one on the house to celebrate the return of my purse), met some super nice people from Flint Michigan, paid cash for our meal and headed back to the hotel happy as can be.
The Prince and Water Cafe
In the heart of Charlottetown on the corner of Prince and Water.
A picture of happiness.
We had already cancelled all the credit cards, but getting the documents back and having a great meal can make for a good picture.
As we walked into the Delta, Steve noticed a lot of security. Now we're talking the real kind ,guys with guns and ear phones standing throughout the lobby. We were trying to figure out what was going on when someone said they saw the Princess of Japan coming into the hotel. Just as we looked in that direction, she walked right by us. We looked at each other and Steve said, "Japan has a princess?" And with that, we headed to our room with just enough time left for some bed bouncing and a story.
The next morning we were walking through the streets of Charlottetown looking for a place to have breakfast. We came across a cafe that had a huge lineup outside and thought that was a good sign. Boy, were we right! That was one of the best breakfasts we have ever had. There selection was amazing and their crepes were absolutely scrumptious! We definitely recommend this place to everyone, it's called Cora's.
After that we headed back to the hotel as I had booked Steve a surprise massage for Father's Day. I took this opportunity to introduce the kids to their first lesson in Canadian History. Yes, Nikolas groaned as I explained to him that we were headed to Founder's Hall, which is located right behind the Delta Hotel. He did get a little excited when we entered and he found out we had to wear headsets. This pavilion transports visitors back to 1864. You are led through the pages of Canadian history as a narrator explains the historic significance of Charlottetown and why it is called the 'birthplace' of Canada. There are state-of-the-art displays, theatres, on-screen trivia games and by the end, Nikolas was quite impressed. He even learned something about Canada, so I was very satisfied with our little adventure.
That night we had tickets to the wonderful production of Anne of Green Gables, the musical. It was playing at the beautiful Confederation Centre of the Arts which is just a ten minute walk from the Delta. We weren't sure whether the kids would enjoy the show but we thought we had to see Anne in Charlottetown. It was the first show of the season and it was sold out. We also had the princess of Japan in the audience and when she entered and exited the theatre we all had to stand and be very quiet. She had a lot of security around her and in some ways it kind of made us uncomfortable. Danika thought it was cool but she kept asking me why the princess wasn't wearing a crown. The show was fantastic. It made us laugh and cry and the actress who played Anne was phenomenal. Apparently, Anne of Green Gables is immensely popular in Japan and we were told that there are often dignitaries or wealthy people that fly all the way from Japan to see Cavendish and the production.
Just to give you an idea about how 'different' it is in P.E.I. there are two stories to tell. We were walking down the main street in Charlottetown when two teenage boys were coming out of the liquor store. The older boy, about 18, was handing over a bottle of liquor to the younger boy. The older one was cursing like crazy but as we walked up to them he looked up, noticed we were there with our two kids and politely apologized to us as we walked by. Steve and I stared at each other and started laughing. That would never happen on the streets of Surrey, that's for sure. Another time when I was in a gift store looking for souvenirs, the owner came out and started talking to me and asking me how I was enjoying my trip. When I told him where I was from and how I found his island to be so safe and friendly he told me a story that made me laugh. He said that just after the bad storm they had last year he was driving from home towards his gift shop to make sure the building was undamaged. As he came around the corner, one of his neighbours was coming the other way so he stopped and rolled down his window and started to talk. He said he was there for a good 20 minutes and when he looked up he noticed that another neighbour had driven up behind him and had put his car in park and was waiting for the two friends to finish their conversation. He didn't honk, he didn't try to make his way around the cars, he just turned off his engine, picked up his paper and waited till the men were done their chatting. Unbelievable!
We really loved P.E.I. and we vowed that we would come back some day and just spend all our days driving around and enjoying the scenery and the feeling of well-being. It would be interesting to find out if their life span is longer, life just seems so good there. Oh, and don't forget to try the Cow's ice cream, it originated in P.E.I. and it's very delicious!
It was sad to leave but it was time to head to the Confederation Bridge. We were so excited as we had heard so much about it. It connects P.E.I to the mainland at New Brunswick. The bridge is 12.8 km long and is the longest bridge in Canada. The walls on either side are quite high and so it's hard to see the water. It took us about 10 mins to cross and the weather was good so there were no huge waves, which I heard can make the crossing interesting if there are high winds.
Our plan was to burn through New Brunswick and get to Quebec as soon as we could. For some reason we had no real desire to see New Brunswick but in hindsight, we wish we had made some more time to see more of it because it really was quite nice. It reminded us of Nova Scotia and B.C. without the mountains. Very green and lush. We drove through Moncton and into Fredericton where we drove through the city and up through the university on the hill. The day was not great so we did not get out of the car and I guess my best description would be of a larger fishing town. Not a lot of high rises and, as it seemed, not a lot going on. It was Sunday, so that would explain some of it but we just didn't find it all that enticing. As we were driving along we came upon, quite unexpectedly, a place called The King's Landing Historical Settlement. It is a huge outdoor museum that is nestled in the majestic setting of the St. John River Valley. It is located 20 mins. west of Fredericton and it cost us about $34.00 for all four of us. We came a little late so they gave us a deal because you should spend from 4-5 hours walking through this amazing place. There are over 70 historic buildings complete with artifacts, furniture, tools and equipment. The staff are thoroughly trained and are in costume in both clothes and talk. They go about the day as if they are working on the farm and talk to you like you are living in New Brunswick during the 1800s. They are self-guided tours and as you walk from the school to the church to the saloon you are constantly forced to interact with the staff. There is no electricity and even when you enter the saloon it is lit by candles and nothing else. The kids loved this place and we found out that there is a camp that allows you to 'live' in the village for a week and live like the olden days. Nikolas was not interested. Highly recommended!
We realized that we had to stop somewhere to sleep and since Steve had this vision to "keep going" we ended up in one of the stinkiest places we have ever been. Edmundston, New Brunswick. We apologize to the residents of this town but when we drove in and started looking for a place to sleep, the first thing we noticed was this gigantic mill chugging this thick black smoke smack dab right in the middle of the town. It looked awful but the smell was unbelievable! The windows were all closed but we could still smell the stench and it literally burnt the backs of our throats, it was so strong. We actually had to turn the truck around and drive towards the flow of the wind so that we could stay behind the smell. That is how we decided which motel to stay at, it had to be the one that was not in the flow of the wind. Edmundston is right on the border of Quebec and as we found out, everyone here speaks French, so finding a good place to eat was a little difficult. K.F.C. in the motel room was the order of the day and it ended up being just fine because that meant we didn't have to go outside and choke. How do these people live here??? We were starting to miss our lovely P.E.I. as we thought about what lay ahead tomorrow when we ventured into Quebec.